Western Georgia

April 3 through April 6, 2000

While going from Melbourne, FL up into Georgia, we encountered some more severe weather warnings. It seems like we are going through some phases of two or three days of really nice weather, then a day or two in which a couple of fronts will pass through and the weather is quite nasty. Although there was some damage Monday night in the area between Birmingham, Alabama and Atlanta, we were far enough south to miss it altogether. During the day on Tuesday we passed through several counties for which there were tornado warnings, but we didn’t have any problems. I asked a local if this is typical weather for this part of the country, and he said that the only thing typical was that you can never really know what to expect for March and early April.

In any event, on Monday (4/3) we checked out some of the things that we had wanted to see in central Georgia. We started at the site of the Andersonville POW camp from the Civil War, went through Americus, and visited some of the Jimmy Carter Historical Sites in Plains.

The Andersonville National Historical Site was very well done. The area on which the camp was built is all delineated with markers. At two points, the northeast corner and the north entry gate, the outer stockade has been reconstructed and, in the northeast corner, the deadline and some of the handmade shelters are represented. The Stockade Branch, which served as both a water supply and the sewage system (and, therefore, was responsible for much disease) still flows.

Within the camp, Providence Spring is a spring that started flowing in the summer of 1864 and gave some relief to the polluted water supply is still there. The speculation is that this spring had existed before, but was blocked off by the building of the stockade. Eventually, then, it started flowing again. One problem was that it flowed in the dead zone – that area between the deadline and the stockade in which the guards had orders to shoot anyone. When the spring started flowing, the prisoners would attach cups onto poles to dip water. Finally, the Confederate forces allowed the prisoners to channel the flow into the camp itself.

In addition to the POW camp itself, there is a museum that is dedicated to American POWs from all wars. I didn’t really think that I would find it all that interesting or meaningful, but it was both. That is a museum that is well worth visiting.

After visiting Andersonville we drove through Americus and to Plains. At Plains we visited the museum that is located in the school that both Jimmy and Rosalyn Carter attended for 12 years. We got into town on the day that the funeral for Rosalyn Carter’s mother was held, but we got in late enough so that there wasn’t anything going on. We were kind of hoping that we would see some of the family, but we did not see any of them.

When we left Andersonville we headed toward Americus and Plains. We were listening to a PBS radio station that indicated that they covered Warm Springs. We hadn’t even thought about going there, but if it was close, maybe we would. We found out that it was only an hour and a half or two hour drive, so we went up there on Monday evening. As expected, we got there after everything had closed for the day, but we decided that we would see the “Little White House” Tuesday morning. We talked about camping that night, but we had been traveling through areas where there were severe weather warnings and tornado warnings, so we decided we had best stay in a motel. We wound up staying in an old hotel/bed and breakfast in downtown Warm Springs, and got off to an early start on Tuesday morning.

The exhibits and displays at the “Little White House” were very nice, and we spent the morning looking around there. The house itself is really very small and cozy. It is the kind of a vacation house in which I could be very happy. There is a kitchen, a common dining/living room, three small bedrooms and a couple of baths. The furniture from the 20’s and 30’s leaves something to be desired from my standpoint, however. There wasn’t a recliner in sight. Basically, you had straight chairs (either kitchen or library type chairs), a rather formal sofa, and that was about it. If it were my house, I would re-furnish it. After leaving Warm Springs at mid day on Tuesday, we headed up to Atlanta, and our friends Steve and Carolyn who we had met on our cruise in January. We spent Tuesday evening getting reacquainted. Unfortunately Carolyn had to work (she is the one of the four of us that is still doing some productive work), but Steve gave us some royal, personalized tours of the area.

On Wednesday morning, Steve took us downtown on the Atlanta light rail system (MARTA) to do the Atlanta volkswalk that the Roswell Striders, the club that they belong to and of which they are currently co-chair. As usual, this is a great way to get an introduction to a city, but this time it came with the addition of a personal tour guide to give even better explanations of what we were seeing. The walk took us through Centennial Park, around the State Capitol, and through the Atlanta Underground, among other places. Centennial Park is the central square of the ’98 Olympics, and has been reworked to provide a very enjoyable catalyst for the revitalization of the downtown area. The Atlanta Underground is the original street level of Atlanta around the train station. In order to facilitate movement within the city, the streets were moved up onto viaducts. With the streets moved up a level, the storefronts also moved up, and the original street level was abandoned until recently. Now this level is being used for boutiques and restaurants, as well as plaques describing the historical uses of the area.

When we left the downtown area, we went to see the Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park. The day that we were there, the air was very clear and the view was spectacular. To the south you could see Marietta and Atlanta (as well as most of the towns between). To the north you can see halfway up to Tennessee. During the Confederates fighting retreat from Chattanooga to Atlanta, they spent about a month holding the mountaintop and preventing further Union advances on Atlanta. At one point Sherman had the Union forces attempted a direct frontal attack on these defenses. That seems suicidal given the very high, steep terrain, and the attack failed. During that whole campaign toward Atlanta, it was only the flanking maneuvers that allowed Sherman to succeed.

On Thursday, we went to the Cyclorama and the Atlanta History Center. The Cyclorama is a huge (about 300 feet long, as I recall) painting in the round of a decisive battle in Sherman’s Atlanta campaign. The painting was originally done near the end of the 19th century. In the 1930’s a diorama was added to the foreground. The audience sits on a set of bleachers that rotates through the scene as a description of the battle is narrated. It is a very affective presentation, and the picture portrays a little of the chaos of the battlefield that is not present in most of the descriptions and conventional paintings of the events. It was all very effective.

After a short driving tour that included views of the Atlanta Brave’s new stadium, Margret Mitchell’s house, and the Georgia governor’s mansion, we went to the Atlanta History Center. This is a history museum located in the exclusive suburb of Buckhead (where the governor’s mansion is located). While we were there we toured the Swan House (a very nice 1920’s neo-classical mansion) and the exhibits presenting the Civil War and the history of Atlanta. The Civil War exhibit was particularly effective in its brief presentation of the science of war as well as the way in which the war affected both individuals and the city of Atlanta.

We were treated to a view of Atlanta that we could never have either imagined or have had without such a personal tour guide. As much fun as that was, however, we had an even better time just getting further acquainted with Steve and Carolyn. As we are seeing on this road trip so far, our expectations for personal interactions are being far exceeded.